Noble Knit

Here at Loom1801, we love a jacquard -- even our name pays homage to the year jacquard wovens were invented.

Jacquard knits, although similar to wovens in some ways, have a bit of their own story. A type of warp knit, jacquard knits started appearing in the 1870's, when jacquard technology was adapted to raschel knitting machines.

Today, techy yarns and updated techniques give these knits exciting dimension, like the 3-D effect seen on this Jackytex cotton and nylon lace-like structure.

Light and airy, this quality was about "adjusting the idea of weight, pattern and texture," offers Piero Giachi, owner of the mill, a luxury knit favorite located in the province of Arezzo in Italy's Tuscan region.

Giachi has always loved to experiment with all that is new since the mill opened in 1972. "It's the details that make these structures more modern," he insists.

By taking what are essentially "very noble fibers" like cotton and nylon, and "expressing them in a bigger way," he adds, "we continue our legacy of creativity, innovation and uniqueness."

And innovation like that helps fuel fashion designers with fresh ideas that make sense for their brands at retail.  It's a big win/win.

My Go-To Inspiration

Everything. That face. The jacket. The HAIR! 

Decadent Dégradé

Talk about a shining example.

Sordevolo, a mill based in the village of Sordevolo in Italy's Biella area, creates some of fashion's most exciting metallic novelties.

Although known for their luxurious and highly-compact plain wovens used by the likes of Ms. Prada, the mill, founded in 1965 (its roots are older), has an impressive lineup of metallic noveltly cloths as well. This one caught my eye as I love a layered technique.

First, a Lurex dégradé is woven on a jacquard loom and then the fabric is pigment printed in plaid. 

Luxe? Of course! But radiant FUN.

And what's fashion without that?

Hooray for Herringbone

Forster Willi / Forster Rohner, a well-known embroidery house in St Gallen, Switzerland, was smart to buy Jakob Schlaepfer.

Schlaepfer, a couture mill founded in 1904 in the very same town, is nothing short of magical. Known, as the Swiss are, for their fine embroidery, Jakob Schlaepfer takes it all ten steps further with not only gorgeous bases, but one-of-kind embellishment techniques. 

Forster Willi / Forster Rohner's capacity will enable Schlaepfer to "take it to the next level," says the mill's exclusive North American agent Shkendie Basler who has worked at the mill 23 years. "It's a natural extension for the brand."

Pictured here is a quality from the mill's A/W16 collection -- it starts with a herringbone metallic jacquard and tops it off with (why not?!) ridiculously chic printed sequins. 

Now, the next time someone asks you how to make menswear more feminine, voila!

Another Dimension

This pillowy fabric from Mantero -- founded in Como, Italy in 1902 -- is high fashion and, as it turns out, all technology.

Using a special weaving technique that "allows the yarns to be woven in two levels," says mill account manager, Plinio Schiavio, the fabric's waffle-like plushness comes from the combination of two warps and one weft. A bit of space is then left between the two warps to give the fabric its three dimensions. Yes. Amazing.

And the best part? It's printed in The mill's much-loved bold hues, that are always dynamic and highly sophisticated. 

Lace's Place

Another novel idea. Classic yes, but thanks to embroidered effects and sleek yarn, lace stays current and always cool.

From hints of metallic shine and gloss to wirey/papery yarns and heavy guipure structures, today's lace and lace-like looks have muscle to make strong shapes.

As all-over cloths or, better yet, used as a combo or trim, these discreetly graphic goodies never disappoint.

Fashion Flash

An overprinted jacquard is always a good idea; so is a dense, richly-colored embroidery on tulle. Day to evening indeed. 

Picture Perfect Prada

This is what they mean when they say give me something new. Who else but Miu could punch plaid in the face and make houndstooth so desirable? Go bold or go home! 

Light My Fire

Christmas came early for me today when mom gave me her vintage Cartier lighter, bought in Paris in 1970. Since I am rendered almost speechless I will simply say this: it is easily the chicest thing I have ever seen. ❤️

Very Vintage

I can now die happy... I just happen to have a swatch of this Abraham fabric from my days at WWD that is featured in the mill's archive book. OMG

Candy Kane

I am amazed at the beauty and intelligence of this Christopher Kane patchwork lace dress for pre-fall 2015 on Net-A-Porter. 

Rich colors and graphic patterning make this classicly shaped dress a no brainer. And of course, lace never goes out of style. 

Not exactly a steal at $4350, but who cares? And like mom always says, you'll have it forever.

Photo courtesy of Net-A-Porter

Come Fly With Fendi

Few houses have the caché of Rome-based Fendi. Not only do they keep the fun in fashion with their baguette bags and oh-so-chic mink owls, they also run a serious luxury business. And with Lagerfeld at the helm for 50 years, how can they go wrong?

For Resort 2016, Lagerfeld brought back the elegant, yet mysterious, bird of paradise from Fall. No doubt, one of my favorite print motifs ever.

And it was a theme that helped to round out a beautiful collection that also included a strong reinterpretation of denim.

It all gets my vote for best Resort collection of 2016: elegant yet playful and totally luxurious.

Here, more of my favorite looks.

Strong and Sweet

Maximum Impact

Fab Fatigues

Denim Redux

Think Pink

Another stunner from French mill Malhia Kent. Using metallic yarns, this sea of faces design is not just whimsical, but highly original as well. I love the hot pink touch too!  

Metal Head

Metallics moved from nighttime to any time some years ago. Today, they are considered a neutral in fashion and are used across all markets and categories.

Designers and buyers alike have tuned into the fact that every girl likes to shine, no matter her style, budget or size.

Pictured here is a particularly soft and moldable metallic from French couture fabric house, Clairet. The company, based in the Rhône Alpes region of France, was founded as a home furnishing fabric supplier in 1929 by Emile Clairet.

Now run by Emile's grandson, Jean-Michel, the company created a fashion collection just two years ago that includes a selection of beautifully crafted fabrics made with both innovative yarns and special luxe finishes. Clients for the mill include Dior, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton and Chanel, among others.

C'est magnifigue!

Techy Textiles

It was super exciting to moderate the textile technology panel at the latest Première Vision New York show, held January 13-14 at Pier 92 in Manhattan.

The subject, "Technology and How it Will Serve Fashion in the Future," was led by panelists that included tech wiz Amanda Parkes and representatives from Under Armour, Polartec, CityZen Sciences and Concordia Fabrics, as well as designers Zaid Affas and Bjorn Bengtsson.

The 90 minute seminar touched on wearable technology, smart clothing and 3D printed textiles. An interesting talk indeed!

Thanks to all the panelists and to PV New York for such a strong and interesting discussion. Check out PV New York's website, premierevisiony in the coming days for my report on the show.

Jacquard Jubilee

Of all the looms, jacquard looms are my favorite because they produce complex structures that merit a trophy for texture -- both on the front of a fabric, and, sometimes, the back.

Designers love to pick the "wrong" side of jacquards to use as the face, some go further and find a way to show both sides. After all, why pick a double-face fabric when you can have a singular sensation?

Take this intricately woven tweed from Sordevolo. It's everything other tweeds want to be: classicly luxe and lofty with enough rock-star soul to silence those who say it's too "lady". And it's as much of a party in the back as it is in front. 

Now that makes it twice as nice.

L.O.O.M.

What a lovely surprise to come home to today -- Marc Snyder's LL Bean tote from when he owned L.O.O.M.

Marc, a dear friend who passed some years ago, was the inspiration behind Loom1801.

So blessed to feel his love and a big thank you to his gorgeous widow Sharon and their beautiful girls, Emma and Maddy, for thinking of me. So very honored...

RISD Romp

Back when I was the textile fashion editor at WWD, I remember learning about the textile design program at the Rhode Island School of Design and thinking how cool learning to create woven and knit structures and prints must be. And now, almost 15 years later, I will be heading to RISD on Monday to lecture their textile design students on the landscape of the industry and how it's changing. Dream come true!

Tweed Tales

Coco Chanel knew the power of tweed. So does Eve Corrigan and her creative team at Malhia Kent, a Lyon-based mill founded in 1987.

No two fabrics are alike and each is painstakingly created using special machinery that weaves a plethora of dynamic and colorful yarns into charming and whimsical masterpieces.

Pictured here is a quality from the mill's Fall 2015 collection that is both preppy and fun, thanks to a shot of wrapping paper-like silver metallic.

Swiss Miss

There are embroideries, and then there are Swiss embroideries. Breathtaking and beyond sophisticated, these special cloths are made by a select group of mills using age-old techniques in thoroughly modern motifs.

Craft is king at Bischoff, one such jewel, founded in 1927 in St. Gallen. The mill offers everything from guipures, broderie anglaise, silk embroideries and thermo-cuts.

Here, their lace-like embroidery shines bright in navy and silver, one of my favorite classic color combinations.