The Difference Between Textile Design and Textile Sourcing

I am often asked exactly what it is that I do. Do I do textile design? I wish. My dream would be to create new woven structures on hand looms all day long, but no...

So what is a textile research and development person? How is textile sourcing done? Simply put, I provide a service to designers that cuts down on the time they spend searching for the perfect fabric.  

When a new season starts and the theme is decided on, that's when my work begins. Textile research and textile sourcing means going out and editing down dozens of fabric selections from the top mills to bring designers the best of the best. This range must fit not only their theme and their brand, but their price point as well.

Once the favorite fabrics are picked, then textile development starts. Through constant contact with the mills, solids are dyed in custom colors, prints are managed from the artwork stage to the finished fabric stage and weave structures are created using the theme and colors chosen by the designer -- and all must be catered to fit the DNA of the brand I'm working with.

Textile sourcing and textile research and development requires organization, technical knowledge and strong relationships with global mills. It's challenging and fun and when the designer gets exactly the fabric they envisioned, it can be quite rewarding.

French Finery

The technicians at Lyon-based Bucol obviously love a good challenge. Never content to rest on their Hermès-owned laurels, the mill is constantly at work, updating their ridiculously gorgeous collection of silk and blended goodies with new and innovative offerings.

When this vision was delivered to my door, my first question was, how did they do that? A simple jacquard I was told. Simple? 

As everyone's favorite street-style photographer Bill Cunningham once said, "I eat with my eyes", and this cloth certainly satiates the appetite: I see (all in one!) an animal skin, a metallic and even hints of the laminated techy feel that was so prevalent for fall 2015 fabrics at last month's Première Vision in Paris. Merci Bucol, for always bringing us au courant looks that (quietly) scream luxury.

Candy Color Couture

Founded in 1947, UK-based Laurent Garigue is a mill synonymous with eye-catching fabrics in extraordinary colors.

"There is no one cloth that speaks our name," says Laurent Garigue, the founder's son and present owner. "Our cloths tend to be recognizable by their color."

Few mills today boast such an array of gorgeously curated hues as this textile gem, whose first clients included the house of Balenciaga and Dior, both of which have remained loyal customers.

"We try to present artistically beautiful collections that are not just born out of commercial blandness," adds Garigue, who along with his dashing wife Aleksandra, designs every cloth. 

They are a couple after my own textile heart in today's cookie-cutter fashion world.

The mohair blend featured here is super cozy, a feeling that prevailed at last month's Première Vision for Fall 2015. Just take your pick from a palette that is pure perfection!

Dream Weaving

Novelty wovens add richness to any collection; and smart designers know that custom novelties can help define a line's DNA.

Think Proenza Schouler. PS girls love the graphic, ethnic fabrics created each season because they add a touch of mystery and worldliness to their sleek tailored pieces.

Like the color-soaked Ikat featured on our home page, the basketweave woven pictured here also hails from Uzbekistan.

The yarns on this vintage piece are key -- shiny raffia is mixed with classic ribbon yarns in different widths and colors to create a multi-dimensional "tweed" effect. A gorgeous take on global indeed!

Heavenly Creatures

Zurich-based Abraham closed its doors in 2002, but the designs from this couture fabric house continue to inspire. The mastermind behind the house, Gustav Zumsteg, partnered with many of fashion's most prestigious names -- Balenciaga, YSL and Givenchy -- during couture's golden era to create unbelievably beautiful fabrics. Many of the archives are shown in Soie Pirate, the two-book reference edited by the Swiss National Museum and produced by Scheidegger & Spiess. These books are a veritable treasure chest for any fabric lover. Here, a chiné from the mid 19th century is boldly over-embroidered, giving it dimension and color. For an in-depth explanation of chiné (and ikat/wrap printing in general), check out this beautiful post from thedreamstress.com: http://thedreamstress.com/2013/07/terminology-what-are-ikat-abr-and-chine/

Drama Queen

From designer Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen's Spring 2015 runway comes this gorgeous guipure gown. Guipure, often mistaken for lace, is actually an embroidery -- a pattern is embroidered atop a cloth which is later dissolved through a chemical process, leaving the lace-like structure behind. Here, the guipure is two toned and mixed with a contrasting top for a highly dramatic and graphic effect. Talk about night moves...

Print Play

Duro Olowu is quite the master at mixing gorgeously colorful and fun prints. Here, an ensemble from his Spring 2015 collection that also features an array of flirty, feminine dresses that are all just begging for a twirl on the dance floor. Can't wait to get my hands on one!

King Dries

What's dreamier than Dries Van Noten's fabrics? Nada. Sitting at the South Street Seaport and a dame just walked by in this skirt from the designer's Fall 2013 collection, reminding me why I love this elusive Belgian and consequently, why I love textiles. Where did the fringe trend come from, you ask? Look no further. As always, Mr. Noten was ahead of his time...

Humble Couture

From the masterminds at lace giant Sophie Hallette comes this beaut: simple bamboo sticks encased in tulle and then appliquéd onto chantilly lace. Eco has been refined. And by the French, of course!

The Future is Now

Martin Leuthold, creative director of Jakob Schlaepfer -- one of the last great couture fabric mills based in beautiful St. Gallen, Switzerland -- always reminds me of Willy Wonka and his chocolate factory. Not only does Leuthold consistently churn out quirky goodies every season, he has loads of fun doing it! And everything he creates is crazy chic! Just ask Karl Lagerfeld, who uses Jakob Schlaepfer's fabrics every season at Chanel, both in the ready-to-wear and couture collections. For Fall 2015, Leuthold dreamt up this beauty, which features colorful plastic "pleats". And like Wonka's everlasting gobstopper, his creations are always timeless and delicious!

Nature Calls

A macro shot of coral from National Geographic photographer Tim Laman. Fabric inspiration is everywhere...

Bookworm

Just a few of my favorite things... Everyone loves books, especially in fashion. The group shown here, all from my at-home stash, are my favorite textile art books, with some on architecture and fashion thrown in for good measure. Tons of ideas! 

Eyes Wide Open

Welcome to the world of Loom1801. Here, fabrics reign supreme. We want to inspire you to get excited about fabrics – with everything from ideas on color, texture and print, to thoughts on which textile techniques will be key for the coming season.

Première Vision, with its first look at Fall 2015, is just weeks away. Time to get ready for fabric fun! Pictured: a sneak peek of Fall 2015 with color from Laurent Garigue, metallic madness from Sordevolo and a fresh take on transparent from Bischoff.